Recipe Advice Thread

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Permalink Reply by Stu McKinlay on February 9, 2010 at 1:45pm

I find you get more fruit and less grass with shorter dry hopping times. I had some problems with grassiness, which I'm not fond of. In the search for tips I remember hearing a podcast... the two important tips were to dry hop (1) short and often (2) at fermentation temperature rather than cold.

Since then I've always dropped them in the fermenter at about day 4 and then racked the beer off to keg at around 8-10. The last beer I dry hopped was only done for about three days... because it was so warm there was heaps of hop particle still in the beer. I racked to a keg, then two days later siphoned to another keg to move it off the hop matter.

Permalink Reply by Reviled on February 9, 2010 at 1:51pm

Cheers for that Stu :o)

I might have to try an experiment...

Permalink Reply by jt on February 9, 2010 at 2:22pm

Bingo !
Thanks Stu, I had a hayfeild in every pint with one batch I dry hopped for 8 days and abandoned the recipe thread ... might ressurect the thread and brew again.

Permalink Reply by Stu McKinlay on February 9, 2010 at 3:35pm

on that podcast was someone talking about dry hopping (it may have been Matt Bryndilson from Firestone) and i seem to remember him saying that they do several 'batches' of dry hopping for a few days each.

Then I've read somewhere that Rogue dry hop their barleywine for 8 months!

Permalink Reply by Reviled on February 9, 2010 at 3:45pm

Ive read a bit about 'batch dry hopping' and often wondered why it was done... Seems to have some logic to it, but man, think of all the beer they must lose to hop matter??

And wtf @ an 8 month dry hop???

Permalink Reply by Stu McKinlay on February 9, 2010 at 1:46pm

i get more of the resin from middle additions 30-10min... love it

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Permalink Reply by Toot on February 9, 2010 at 2:16pm

Do you wait for the krausen to subside before you chuck your hops in?

Permalink Reply by Mike Neilson on February 9, 2010 at 5:07pm

This is my Dryhopping schedule and I think my results have improved ten fold since doing this is I to ferment within 8-10 points of termianal gravity (watch the krausen it will tell you) then rack to a 20L Jerry Can with the hops, screw the top on tight and let it do its thing for 3-6 days (all depends on size off balls) Crash cool to zero chuck in some cow hoof keep it there over night and you have brilliant clear beer with f all shit going into keg or bottle (+ Carb Solution). The reason for dry hoping and crash cooling in the same vessel is that the c02 that would of been let into the atmosphere remains in the jerry can and can dissolve back into solution, when you crash cool it all that Hoppy aroma c02 gets reasborbed into solution. The beer will go into the keg at about 1 vol of Co2 + 1 vol of c02, opposed to 2 vos of c02. If you think 'heck 1 vol isnt much' You totally fucking wrong!! Theres my tip. anyone else want to shed some???

Permalink Reply by Reviled on February 9, 2010 at 5:17pm

Mate, that sounds awesome Mike!! 1 volume is like enough for me to start drinking :o) haha

Man, need to get another fermenting fridge so I can crash cool again! Interesting theory about the aromatic Co2 absorption!

Permalink Reply by Mike Neilson on February 9, 2010 at 7:06pm

Yeah its nervous times when you look at it and it looks like a soccer ball!! But Fret not!! It will taste so much better!!

Permalink Reply by jt on February 9, 2010 at 1:18pm

Open the fermenter and chuck your hops in

Whatever happened to lintless stockings from Resene - all the rage a year ago ???

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Permalink Reply by MrC on February 9, 2010 at 8:58pm

Don't worry jt. You'll still need your lintless stockings if you want multiple short dry hoppings. You still have an excuse to keep buying them ;-)

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