Want to place an ad email luke@realbeer.co.nz
$50+GST / month

RealBeer.co.nz

Hi Guys, thought i might pick your collective brains, as my mashing is pretty awful, and about to drive me back to malt extract.

i seem to get really low yield, and as i only measure the gravity post boil, end up tossing heaps of extract or sugar in to bring the gravity to where it should be to match the hops.

Anyway...
How fine should my grind be, as i still have what seem to be whole grains in the mash, should they all be broken.
Any hints on chillibin mash setup for sparging would be helpful, as i never seem to get my wort to run clear, and the gravity is way low. A bit frustrating having to resize the batch,(or top up with something fermentable to get the gravity to match the hops)

Any suggestions, or links appreciated.
Cheers.

Views: 150

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

I may yet, but already have a bag that fits the cooler better than the pot. It's only a small cooler so will only be a partial mash. Just gotta figure out if my 21ishL pot will be big enough for a 10L batch of about 1.090 beer haha, been at work too long, can't be bothered trying to make my brain work.
hazy beer???
how about recirculation etc.
I imagine BIAB just leaving you with a big hazy mess in the kettle... but, in saying that, I've not investigated the technique because I'm sparging my way to my beer.
Yes BIAB has a hazy kettle, however finings, and cold conditioning help the cause.
It can do, but not allways... There are ways around it which I am currently investigating... Allthough it doesnt bother me too much, the beer tastes good, I just wont be getting any 5/5 for appearance, unless it gives a good lacy head :o) haha
It could be that with your set up, you're just not mashing for long enough....Try doing an iodine starch conversion test before you sparge to see if your mash is indeed finished.
How do you do an iodine starch test?
Bit of wort, a drop on Iodine/Iodophor if it stays the same colour it's done. Easy!!
Hmm, sweet, seems easy enough :o)
I've heard, but can't confirm, that this isn't an accurate test. All it shows is that there are no starches present, not that they've actually turned to sugar yet.

Take it with a grain of salt, I don't know the science behind the enzyme conversion and all that but might be something to keep in mind.

My test is better anyway, taste the wort to see if it's sweet :-P
I've always done this test and it works well.
I start draining off the wort when I get a clear starch reading.

I recirculate until the wort runs clear (the mash bedding in and acts as a natural filter).

I then add clean water at correct temperature until done. I know it is done bacause I am taking gravity readings constantly. Why? because if the gravity drops below a critical threshold, you start extracting tannins which you do not want.

I finally top up with more water.

Hope this helps.
The science behind this test is pretty easy as well...

Starch is a composite of amylose (approx 20%) - a polymer of glucose molecules joined together in a helical staight line, and amlyopectin (approx 80%) - polymer of glucose molecules joined together in a staight line with side chains of other glucose chains about every 25 molecules.

The amylase enzyme breaks the bonds between these molecules liberating; for amylopectin, single or double glucose units (glucose and maltose respectively) and for amylose, double glucose units.

When Iodine is added, if amylose is present, it gets trapped in the helical structure and the association forms a grey/blue colour. Hence, if the colour is absent, the amylose has been converted to smaller sugars.

Hope this helps....

RSS

© 2024   Created by nzbrewer.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service