Electric Brewing
I have been researching the hell out of setting up the electric brewery and have been buying bits and pieces to get my rig underway, but my issue is what to do next... beside procrastinating!
I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.
Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there is a NZ supplier (Thermowellsupply.com) but they are yet to reply to me. I could make my own out of SS tube and SS bolts drilled out, but thermowells / thermocouples make me horny.... I mean look cool and would make the job easier.
Firstly I would like to introduce Frankenframe. Once he was the backbone of a processing conveyor belt worked 20 years for the man, now he is the is reborn as my brewing frame (also known as Rodney). Angled galvanised steel, yet to be painted and completed. Two tiers, and will have wheels etc.
My idea for the rig (the frame is having the final welding done tonight as long as the welder doesn't drink too much of my beer):
I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.
Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there is a NZ supplier (Thermowellsupply.com) but they are yet to reply to me. I could make my own out of SS tube and SS bolts drilled out, but thermowells / thermocouples make me horny.... I mean look cool and would make the job easier.
Firstly I would like to introduce Frankenframe. Once he was the backbone of a processing conveyor belt worked 20 years for the man, now he is the is reborn as my brewing frame (also known as Rodney). Angled galvanised steel, yet to be painted and completed. Two tiers, and will have wheels etc.
My idea for the rig (the frame is having the final welding done tonight as long as the welder doesn't drink too much of my beer):
And the controller:
I'm looking for feedback, in particular if you have ideas in relation to the controller. (Oops just realised I missed the pump control from the controller, nuts.)
More photos etc to come as Frankenframe goes through the motions to become my brewing rig.
:)
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by James P on
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Only 40~45 at the moment MrC until I get a new SS pot, probably 68litres so 60litres? That's probably over the top, but my brother and brother in law are now interested in being involved in brewing.
I guy that owned the conveyor frame, Rodney, died a couple years ago and my brother has had the frame since then. Just paying a little homage.
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Permalink Reply by Mike Neilson on
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Geez everyones going electric!! First thing if it was me is buy LOW LIME or Low Density Elements!! I didnt and I wish I did!!
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Permalink Reply by Sparky on
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Yep agree with Mike's comment, these elements are the way to go. The larger surface area dissapates the heat so there's little chance of sorching wort. I've used a normal 2kW on the HLT and a low density 3kW on the Kettle.
Also I've insulated the Kettle with a removable jacket. This has reduced heat losses and means I'm almost boiling at the end of the Sparge. The jacket is made up using two insulated Camp foam mattresses from Mega.
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Permalink Reply by jt on
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Still here Mr O, is it raining up there, or does Mrs O think you're studying in there ?
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I did find these 2.2kW elements (or heat sticks) in Australia from JB Brew: Link Looking at about $160 for a pair, which is cheaper than buying a low lime HWC element from say Ideal, or Cory's electrical ($90 rings a bell).
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Permalink Reply by Chris Banks on
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Any thoughts on that controller I mentioned?
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Hi Chris, That controller looks to be more than adequate for the HLT depending on the type of input and output selected. When using electric to heat water for mashing and sparging, off/on control is fine as long as there is reasonable differential between off and on. (around 0.5deg maybe). A standard relay capable of switching the element load would be fine connected to the output or indeed a SSR. Whatever way you choose to go, a small pilot lamp or led connected at the element terminals is a bonus and gives indication that the element is energised. Cheers
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