Electric Brewing
I have been researching the hell out of setting up the electric brewery and have been buying bits and pieces to get my rig underway, but my issue is what to do next... beside procrastinating!
I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.
Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there is a NZ supplier (Thermowellsupply.com) but they are yet to reply to me. I could make my own out of SS tube and SS bolts drilled out, but thermowells / thermocouples make me horny.... I mean look cool and would make the job easier.
Firstly I would like to introduce Frankenframe. Once he was the backbone of a processing conveyor belt worked 20 years for the man, now he is the is reborn as my brewing frame (also known as Rodney). Angled galvanised steel, yet to be painted and completed. Two tiers, and will have wheels etc.
My idea for the rig (the frame is having the final welding done tonight as long as the welder doesn't drink too much of my beer):
I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.
Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there is a NZ supplier (Thermowellsupply.com) but they are yet to reply to me. I could make my own out of SS tube and SS bolts drilled out, but thermowells / thermocouples make me horny.... I mean look cool and would make the job easier.
Firstly I would like to introduce Frankenframe. Once he was the backbone of a processing conveyor belt worked 20 years for the man, now he is the is reborn as my brewing frame (also known as Rodney). Angled galvanised steel, yet to be painted and completed. Two tiers, and will have wheels etc.
My idea for the rig (the frame is having the final welding done tonight as long as the welder doesn't drink too much of my beer):
And the controller:
I'm looking for feedback, in particular if you have ideas in relation to the controller. (Oops just realised I missed the pump control from the controller, nuts.)
More photos etc to come as Frankenframe goes through the motions to become my brewing rig.
:)
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by James P on
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Yeah Crabbe has discussed something, but I have bought the PID etc now so lets see how that progresses....
Probably make no difference to my brewing, it'll still be crap.
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Permalink Reply by Steve Baker on
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I had my first all electric brew day yesterday.
Keggle has a 2.5kw element which has *just* enough grunt for 20l boils. I don't have a controller - no plans for one at this point.
For insulation I went to the $2 shop and got 2 windscreen reflectors and attached with aluminium tape - looks real space-age ;)
I'm all set to build my arduino fermentation controller now.
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Permalink Reply by jt on
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2.5kw element which has *just* enough grunt for 20l boils
What's the boil volume Steve ? I have a 2.3kw that I use to get 26 L to the boil, then cut over to a 1.5 with lid half on.
If I use the 2.3kw right through it's jumping outa the kettle and evaporates twice as fast as I need
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I start out with 26l. Yesterday I actually wanted evaporation because the mash efficiency of my imperial came up short.
I'm a little suspect that this old element really puts out 2.5kw. My 2.3kw HLT seems to heat water faster.
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Not much happening with the frame at the moment, needless to say the welder has still not finished even after I filled and certified the CO2 bottle. Sometimes you shouldn't rely on family or friends especially when they have there own projects! Two of my float switches arrived from the USA today, purchased from ebay on Friday last week, turned up today, fastest delivery I have ever had! They are made from polypropylene so are good for up to about 90C degrees, which means one will be in the HLT, and a spare for experimenting. The other float switches I am still to buy are stainless steel, and they will be in the boil kettle, these are good up to 130C.
The float switches are there to protect the elements from the level of the wort / water dropping too low, and also looking to prevent overfilling when Frankenframe gets his brain to control filling the HLT / auto sparging etc for partial automation (if I ever get that far).
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Permalink Reply by Robin on
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That float switch looks a lot like what is used in milking sheds to switch the milk pump on and off - milk goes into milk can at end of line with one of those in that then controls the pumping of the milk through to the vat. Don't know any prices but might be worth asking the milk plant engineers.
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That's a bloody good idea Robin! I'll investigate that option further.
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Permalink Reply by Horace on
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The ones I have seen in milk plants have been liquid level transmitters. These send a signal to some form of "brain" which in turn drives a speed controller for a pump. ie the more there is in the tank the faster the pump runs. I would imagine that could get expensive - but would be very cool.
A simple way to control liquid height of sparge water is to use a ball-cock type valve, this can work reasonably well with a mag drive pump.
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I got a contact today for the liquid level transmitter... and yes it is much more than I was wanting to spend.
Shipped from the US the stainless steel ones are $17.80USD ($30 ish for two), I like that price.
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Permalink Reply by Dale on
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Partial Automation now that sounds like a fun project...putting a couple of thin clients in there as the brains?
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To be honest I have not idea at this stage, all I know is that somehow I will be runnin it from a "microprocessor" of some description. There are a couple of implementation out there, and whilst they look cool / function well, I'm only doing this for the
frustrationfun of learning.
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Permalink Reply by martin w on
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are you planning on having any sight glasses on your kegs?i wouldn't mind adding one to my bk as most of my pre and post boil volumes are rough guesstimates, i'm a bit stumped as to what to use for a clear rigid tube though? what are you planning on using,if indeed you are having them?
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