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RealBeer.co.nz

Had my gas filled at Wormalds the other day. Dealt with a nice guy there called Dave. Not only would he only take $40 (5kg fill was listed as $49) but he told me about this guy who has just started selling kegerators in NZ (see attachment).

Richard Hill
Manager
Gelid NZ

Ph. 06 377 7342
Fax. 06 370 3196
email. richard@gelidnz.co.nz


p.s. thanks to Kiwicrog for dropping my gas bottle out there in the morning.

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About 570mm wall to wall, 530mm shelf bracket to shelf bracket. So at least 100mm difference between outside width and useable space. Those walls are thin compared to my more modern kitchen fridge. But maybe on a different fridge you might get down to 80mm difference.

If it was going to make the difference you could cut the shelf brackets (and any shelf's molded into the door) off to make the walls flat then apply a coat of something to seal the inside again but it would probably be easier to get a slightly bigger fridge.

With the narrower width depth will also be more of an issue because you cant spread the back 2 and push the front one back into the gap. I don't want to sound negative and I'm not saying it cant be done, they may very well just squeeze in there. Just saying make sure you measure and plan it before spending your money.

Having kegs already will defiantly make measuring up easier.

thanks - i owe you a beer

Cain,

Do you think this one will work? I have asked for internal dimensions...as I'm bit concerned about whether you can fit a corny keg and the CO2 bottle above the compressor

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=893013730&perma...

I really couldn't say. I considered going the keezer route my self, top loading seems to be an advantage because you can take out any keg without moving any others. I didn't go that way because I wanted the extra height to get the taps out of my little sons reach and I store a lot of my home brew gear on top of the fridge. I got lucky and found the identical fridge to the one I use for fermenting so the tops make a good shelf.

Most keezer builds involve taking the lid and hinges off and putting a wooden collar on top of the main bit then bolting the hinges to that this gives you the extra height and something you can drill holes in and be sure not to hit any wires

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