Chassis punches
Hi,
I'm casting the net wide for a 13/16" chassis punch and a 1-1/4" chassis punch to make holes in my pots. I've other options – hire places, buy cheapies (my pots are thin), approach an engineering firm, hit up a friend who works in stainless fabrication.
But seeing as the sizes mandated by theelectrichomebrewery.com are very specific and really must be exact, and seeing as a few here have gone this route with electric gear, I figured someone might have splurged on the GreenLee bad boys and be willing to loan them out.
Anyone?
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Barry on
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Nice, what are you planning to use to limit it's output (presuming it's going in a kettle).
I'm in two minds, could go a PID/SSR, but I also bought one of these off ebay. It was cheap so if I don't end up using it no bother.
@Peter yeah they are real cheap, real thin but in an electric system I think they'll do just fine. Handles seem a bit lightweight so I won't be lifting them when full of boiling wort! Also the handle on the lid hangs neatly over the side handles, a bonus as long as it doesn't fall off :)
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Permalink Reply by Peter Smith on
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/other-electronics/...
and this
http://www.trademe.co.nz/computers/components/cooling-fans/thermal-...
I got two of these now waiting for auber pid to arrive, the trademe sellor is a good guy, very fast.
$50 is a real bargin have asked the sellor if he has bigger pots
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Yeah i priced the auber SSR and HS but adding freight etc etc, went with just the PIDs from the US. I would have gone Chinese pid as well but wanted the timer function for early morning and after work warmup.
We should start an electronic brewery thread..... have you seen Paul W's video on youtube?
http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/video/electric-brew-controller-part1
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Permalink Reply by Scott H on
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For my kettle a stove simmerstat controlling a 30a relay. And on my hlt a temp controller through another relay. And a circ pump.
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Yes on the electric thread. Your going for a lot of automation in your system Pete?
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Only for temp control and a grant with auto switch on / off for recirc, so as not to have a pump thrashing wort... but I like the manual side of brewing. I just want to get away from gas (no more panic refills...) so I can brew in garage over winter and also go to a recirc so I can get clearer wort into kettle. I do want to be able to leave the system to recirc for say 20 mins etc without worrying about it. I also need to give the carport back to the other half so she can park car in it.....
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Sounds much the same mine. Don't want to be poisoning myself come winter. No timers for me though.
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Might start another electric thread, there's plenty of guys on here that have built setups and can offer advice/pitfall avoidance.
I'm going simple too, no HERMS at this stage, batch sparge with cooler MLT. Was going to be one pump but I scored 2 for the price of one so am going to use both.
I'm going to use a PID/SSR to control HLT, a Sestos but with an Auber PT100 probe. Richard talked me out of the ramp/soak thing and I don't need a timer. Then most likely that potentiometer to control the kettle, just because I already have it. No timers or alarms just yet.
I'm going to build my whole control panel with a view to upgrading though, eventually 4 x 1/16 DIN units (3 PIDs and a timer) so my first PID will take up slot 2 and the potentiometer in slot 3. Then I can easily cut 2 more holes and upgrade if I feel the need.
Are you guys wiring plugs onto your kettles? What 30A plugs? I'm looking at these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251304384875 and these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261332307088
But I'd rather those tidy flared receptacles. Can't find any for less than $40US.
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going to go down this path PDL plugs, scavenged from an old comms room decommision... how many do you need , I think they rated to 32A at 240V good to go if wired to a SERIOUS circuit breaker in your house by rated cable.... many jump off there stove wiring but I am not advising that...
http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/electrical-lighting/sw...
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Thats What I will be using to run the whole plant. But I'll be installing it right next to our inside switch board (which is in the car garage) then just going to get about 15-20m of 6mm2 4 core flex and use that. Will just run it out like an Extension lead for the few hours a weak/fortnight that I'll be brewing. I would not recommend tapping into your stove wiring at all. If anything considering your using electricity with water I would strongly recommend that you fit RCD protection to the supply.
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