Conical Fermentors
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Brent Marquis on
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I simply used 6x2 pine for my collar.
holds temp fine, no need to insulate.
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Permalink Reply by Liam Callaghan on
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Damn I wish I had known that before I got all the gear... Worth it now I guess...
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Just a quick update.
Big week this week, set up the company and registered a website - just in case :)
I felt a bit like I was making Frankenstein this arvo in the workshop. First test with the c02 powered racking arm - without the steel pipe as I just ran out of time this week, hopefully build that tomorrow evening. Used plastic tube instead. C02 at 100 (about twice what I usually dispense at, can't remember if its kpi or something...
Anyway, I pipes it up, put a jug of water on the bench and switched on the gas, practically launched it into the bucket on the floor :) Siphon took about a second to start. A few little tweaks and its up and running, very exciting! Might be a quick button valve or something to switch the gas on and off. Anyone know of a quick release button valve give me a shout.
Got all the prices back on the fermentors now and finalised the designs and finish. Hopefully speak to the bank this week and get the tooling made next week and prototypes back asap. Should look to issue some images and prices next week. Conicals are looking mint! Just need to decide how I am going to sell them, home brew shops are the easiest option but direct on the internet is the cheapest option. Minor dilemma I guess, still way cheaper either way.
Gas tools and liquid shifting stuff might take a little longer as I just need to rationalise all the pipe sizes and arrange the tooling for the stainless parts. Seems you can only buy stainless tube in Imperial and all the fittings in NZ are metric... Really nice today though, just disconnect the fridge and snap on a flushing pipe from a steriliser solution and then snap to the racking arm and back to the fridge for a beer! Perfect.
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Permalink Reply by Smiffy on
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For your pressure driven, top entry, racking arm, you should only need about 1 psi not the 15 psi which is what 100 kpa is. 1 psi will raise water by over 600 mm. Second, with the pipe then coming down to the bucket you are also getting a siphon action. Low pressure (just open up the regulator until you hear movement) and bucket level with the top of the racking tube should give you more control.
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Permalink Reply by Barry on
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Cheap and easy sales?
2 words spring to mind: "Trade" and "Me". Looking forward to eyeballing these babies.
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Permalink Reply by mattd2 on
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Good idea to get them out there to others that don't frequent the forum, and sell them to Homebrew shops, they can put their markup on them for those of us that are inpatient and want it in our hands now (or have a lack of trust of the postal service!)
Can't wait to see these bad boys!
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Thanks Smiffy, I'll give that a nudge now I have the stainless racking arm - racking tube really atm. Decided I'll start with the gas at 0 and just dial it up until its running. It wont take much as you say, very suprised.
Looks like there will be a lead in time of about 30 days for the stainless, I'll order 10 to start with and see how they go, more if I get preorders but I guess tats hard until anyone has seen them. Trying not to borrow millions from the bank... TM is a very good option, the plastic manufacturer also suggested that, they run heaps of their stuff through it and doubled sales. I think I am happier with the home brew shops stocking them though, easiest all round I think.
Looking forward to getting them made and getting some beer put through them! Its been way too long since I brewed!
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I start making the tooling for the plastic conical next week and I have a few terminal ends which I was hoping to get some feed back on.
See the image below
- Square closed base that can be drilled for your own bulkhead fitting. Valve or barbed pipe connection onto the threaded bulkhead. Nice and easy but a bit of residual yeast left inthe bottom. Easy to clean though as the bulkheads are easy to remove with a spanner.
- Cylinder end from the cone. Nice and smooth right through so easy to dump yeast cake (Approx 3/4" internal bore) tubing is fixed to the outside via a screwed tube clamp. Clear with dia pipe so you can see the yeast and trub.
- Flanged at the end for tri clover clamp connection. Not the cheapest of clamps but very strong connection and really easy to clean. Lots of options from this terminal end but your other fittings could be pricey.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Image didnt work for some reason...
and don't see to have the option to add a file, hopfully the text is enough information
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Added a pdf...
- Attachments:
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Conical terminal end.pdf, 15 KB
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My preference would be for number 2 as no matter what the actual end of the cone was, I would fit an adapter to allow me to fit clear tube onto it. The only thing I would add is a ridge around the end to stop the hose sliding off.
I think that without a side port, option 1 would just not allow clear beer to be drained off as there would be a small amount of sediment around the base of the cone which would be disturbed when the beer was flowing out at speed. That is just theory though. That wouldn't matter if a racking arm is being used, but the top entry racking arm relying on pressure isn't going to be suitable for anyone without CO2.
Option 3 I think is just not appropriate for the market you are aiming the plastic fermenter at because of the cost of the fittings to match.
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Could you also look at a male 3/4" bsp thread, basically would end up being a cross between option 1 &2 and if you left the last 20mm with no thread Smiffy could still ghetto rig it with tube :-)
Same thoughts as you and Smiffy on option 3 - nice but would be pricey.
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Unfortunately I can't thread the plastic, not the way these are being made. The threaded inserts are awesome but leave a mark around the edges with small pits and holes in it so no good either.
I'm with you Smiffy. 2nd is my personal preference as its smooth as all the way through, I'll have a look at a ridge at the end, good call.
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