Kauri Road Brewery 2.2
Tiny bit more progress tonight saw my making holes in my stainless pots for the electric elements.
Massive thanks to Guy Gibson for the lend of the chassis punch, legend.
I'm doing these following theelectricbrewery.com's instructions to the letter – 2 gang metal junction box, faceplates either side, 32mm hole through a faceplate on the back, element, oring, washer on the outside, lock nut on the inside. Unsurprisingly looks like it'll be perfect.
The hold up has been waiting for some stuff to arrive from Amazon – 3 weeks overdue. Bah. Finally arrived this week so the holes are done. I'll do the rest of the work with weekend, but the end of it I should have elements all wired up.
Punch on outside:
Punch on inside:
Punch through:
Hole!
And the other one:
Cheers.
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Comment by Barry on February 28, 2014 at 1:58pm
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Yeah dunno. Just know 4.5KW will be heaps :)
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Comment by Peter Smith on February 28, 2014 at 2:05pm
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I run 4.4kw its heaps for 23 fine for 46L
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Comment by Scott H on February 28, 2014 at 2:59pm
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then my 5.5 is going to be way over powered lol
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set your pid to only use part of the power cycle and it effectively derates the element.
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Set it up to run via a simmerstat controlling a 30A SSR so effectively doing something similar.
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Comment by Tilt on February 28, 2014 at 3:56pm
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Barry, following your build and learning a few things for future reference along the way. What power source have you got in your brew shed to run 2 or more 4.5kw elements?
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Also Jelous of your MT cooler barry.
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There's two elements. I will only be running one at a time, it's a limitation imposed by the fact I don't want 50A of electricity running through my basement. Plus it's a foundation of theelectricbrewery.com's design and I see no reason to change that.
I'll be using a switch like this so that only one can work at a time. Total draw with one element and pumps/whatever else in the system will be less that 20A, I'll be running everything on minimum 25A breakers (most of the control panel relays and high load bits will be 32A).
I have a dedicated circuit on it's own breaker for this, with a sparky coming to make sure the internal wires are up to snuff to handle the load.
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@Scott H, yeah interestingly I would've probably gone down the stainless pot/HERMS path had I known I'd be getting an extra pump for free. The cooler will do for now but I'll no doubt add a HX at some stage in the future, just for mash temp accuracy and automation.
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Hey Baz, that switch is only rated for 6A did you get that exact one or a 20A version?
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