Questions On Stuff I don't Understand???
Hey guys just going over a recipe for my First IPA!! and if I am to do a 23L batch of Beer then my calculations are for a 6Gallon batch? and if so is it ok just to add the 5Gallon + 1Gallon ingredients together to work out a 6Gallon batch?
Second question...If dry hopping is optional and says "you can add a handful" what measurement is that? and always with about 4-5 days left in fermentation left you do it?
Third question.....How do you work out the IBU (bitterness?) level if not stated in recipe?
Last question......How many packets of dry yeast US.05 would you use? basing it on adding the 5G + 1G together, it would be 1 and a half??
Cheers Guys appreciate it.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Cain Harland on
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I would just control the new brew and let the old one at room temperature. Primary fermentation is.over and the yeast shouldn't mind being a bit cooler whil s cleaning up. If you put the pad in the middle it won't heat evenly and might make not too hot.
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Permalink Reply by Craig Howard on
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What are your ambient tempereatures currently where you live?
(Where do you live anyway?)
A single heat pad under the ferm keg should easily get you 18 - 24 + degrees.
Mine does. ( Auckland) and has done through ambient of 6 - 17 (current)
I also have a little thermal keg wrap made out of high quality bubble wrap that I fashioned into a "coat".
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Permalink Reply by Darren Andrews (Daza) on
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Our temp lately has been from 1C this morning to 20C my heat pad is under my ferm barrel at a temp of 19C connected to my STC1000 works real good!! I'm afraid if I take it off and put my next brew in it that my current one will drop in temp too much, I have it in the garage all wrapped up. I'm in Gisborne!!!
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Keep your bottles in another warmish location. (Ale)...but it does not need to be exactly fermentation temp.
Once you start a fresh brew you need the heat pad and stc to be working for that process.
The trick is...to start the fermenation in the ferm keg with everything exactly at the the fermenation ( as per yeast recommendation) temperature. It only takes about 3 hours for the stc and the hetat pad to stabilise and take control because it doesnt have much work to do.
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heat pads say not to use in the first 24hours of fermenting eh? it's on the box.
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Haven't bottled yet, will keep them inside in cardboard box they came in, and keep out of direct window sunlight. My concern is letting my current fermenter come off heat pad. It has been fermenting now for 17 days, bubbles in airlock stopped ages ago, should I take it inside the house (rather not) what would happen to it if temp dropped low? It's an ale too.
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So long as its above freezing (which might damage the yeast you need for bottle conditioning) a little cold will do a beer thats 17 days old no harm at all, it might even be beneficial, its done fermenting and the yeast will keep on cleaning up any by products at the slightly colder temp if they haven't finished that already. I generally ferment 2 weeks (sometimes I think 3 might be better) then cold crash for 1.
The primary fermentation (the bit where sugars are converted to alcohol) is done in the first few days after that the yeast clean up some of the by products they made and eat some of the heavier sugars.
If you have to move the fermenter to bottle (like I do) I would recommend moving it the evening before, that way any trub you stir up in the move has time to settle out again.
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Cold crash? not sure what that is yet? but thanks on the tips for it being alright to remove heat pad now for new fermenter. I'm not too sure now about doing the IPA recipe I have and might do a APA which I love to drink Monteith's all the time (not cheap though) My first is a APA recipe kit from BrewShop, the grain bill was:
Golden Promise Malt
Caramalt
Carared malt
Carapils Malt
All Cascade Hops.
Possible next one is a Pale Ale Base Malt
Crystal/Caramel 20 malt (what is meant by the 20? I see other same malts with different no.s)
Simcoe Hops
Ahtanum Hops
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20 is a measure of darkness 20 being pretty light
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I had an email tonight from All-Grain and they say.
"Crystal 20L is similar to any Crystal Malt that is 40 EBC - Gladfields
Light, Caramalt, Carabelge etc. The flavors will vary though, the
colour (L / EBC) is just a guide to the kiln level..
We have Ahtanum and Simcoe. The current AA% are listed on the website
and vary harvest to harvest."I don't want real light just a nice amber not like a Pilsener or lager So what type of malt would you use for a APA, or give me a recipe if you like? cheers.
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I love liberty brewings yakima Monster. Details from their website below with the malts you are talking about but Amarillo rather than athanum but the two are quite similar. Warrior is only use in a small quantity for bittering. I have something similar fermenting but won't post recipe because i havent tasted it and the last attempt was good but not great.
Strong APA
6.0% ABV
45 IBU
1.058 OG
Pale ale, Caramalt, Warrior, Simcoe, Amarillo
I did a clone of 3 Floyds zombie dust a while back. It's an all citra apa. I really enjoyed it especially as it aged. Could pot recipe if you want.
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stumbled across this mean as site....
http://byo.com/yeast/item/1197-oh-say-can-you-c?-a-guide-to-brewing...
Oh yeah did I mention I'm doing another APA but this time different malt and hops so will be cool to make a comparison am considering doing a Amarillo and simcoe hops mix, would you say they were classic hops for an American pale Ale?
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