Looking to upgrade equipment from BIAB

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Karl Hayes on March 11, 2013 at 12:27pm

Hi Mike. I guess there are too many variables and the market in NZ is small so there's not many 'one size fits all' prebuilt kits here. A custom made rig need not be too expensive though. Can you answer the following questions:

What batch size do you hope to be able to comfortably brew?

Do you intend to fly-sparge, batch-sparge or no sparge?

Do you require a HERMS feature? (Wort is circulated through a heat exchanger in the first vessel, a HLT, during the mash to keep the temps constant)

Electric or Gas or both?

Do you require the brew stand or just the components?

Will you be using pumps or gravity to transfer wort between vessels?

Cheers

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Permalink Reply by Mike Allan on March 11, 2013 at 1:06pm

Thanks for the quick reply Karl.

1. I would like to be brewing 20L initially however I wouldn't be opposed to increasing capacity to 50L.

2. Fly sparge

3. No particular feature required really so HERMS may not be necessary.

4. I am open to either really. Currently use gas but up for suggestions.

5. Yes will require a brew stand

6. I would presume gravity will be the cheaper option so would go with this initially.

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Permalink Reply by Peter Smith on March 11, 2013 at 1:03pm

Maybe it's the great number 8 fencing wire DIY attitude and an unwillingness to spend thousands so we just DIY it ? Or we don't have thousands .....

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Permalink Reply by Ralph on March 11, 2013 at 2:30pm

Farra offer a complete kit. Sure as heck aint cheap tho! There are a couple of local suppliers of brew kit (mash tuns, kettles etc) so it is not too hard to choose some kit and link it together. You just have to figure out what gear you want and how you want your system to operate.

Both Inibrewsupply.com and Allgrain.co.nz are NZ suppliers with online stores. Karl from Allgrain.co.nz can probably give you a good idea what items you would need to build a system?

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Permalink Reply by Karl Hayes on March 11, 2013 at 3:06pm

Thanks for the intro Ralph :)

In no particular order, you'll need:

• A 3 tier brewery stand, probably made from fabricated steel, (Stainless Steel looks prettier but will be $300 more expensive) I'd expect to pay $300 for this, including fabrication and materials. There are a good few pland on the interweb of 3 tier stands.  A lot of people on this site will say "Do it yourself, mate" but unless you're a handy welder, don't bother. (voice of experience)
• A HLT, a decent water urn can be had for not much on Trade Me, see this auction for an example
• For a fly-sparging Mash Tun, you really want something tall and cylindrical, like the RubberMaid coolers that are sporadically available. Don't get a standard box cooler as the grain bed will be more horizontal than vertical; not ideal. FCO.co.nz have a 20L cooler which will do for anything up to 35 or 40L batches but not 50L. You'll need a conversion kit - weldless bulkhead, ball valve, false bottom or braided hose, about $100, and a sparging arm. I got one made for me by Chris Banks Engineering in Porrirua, I forget how much it cost, maybe around $100.
• For a kettle, my personal preference is for a good solid stock pot, like the ones I sell - $350. Or you can get a cheap kettle from Trade Me which will do the trick for $90 + $80 for the fittings + $30 to drill out the ports.
• You'll need a few hoses and a few connections, a few ball valves, call it $100 all up for Stainless Steel fittings and Silicone tubing.

So roughly $1100 ish. If you're looking to go single tier, you can add $400 for 2 pumps, and about another $150 ish for a few stainless steel couplings and a few more hoses.

Best of luck.

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Permalink Reply by Mike Allan on March 11, 2013 at 9:44pm

Really appreciate the feedback guys...will start looking and piece something together.
Thanks also for the heads up about the welding Karl...certainly not my strong point being from an IT background :)
Where abouts are you based Karl? I presume it's not Auckland?

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Permalink Reply by Karl Hayes on March 11, 2013 at 9:46pm

Sorry dude, the Peoples' Republic of Epuni, Lower Hutt.

Oh, and there's a timber 3 tier rig recently added to Trade Me,

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Permalink Reply by Mike Allan on March 11, 2013 at 9:49pm

Sweet as. I'll be in touch anyway. Thanks again

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Permalink Reply by Tilt on March 12, 2013 at 9:44am

All good advice here - but for another perspective (and there'll be thousands when you ask this sort of question).  The standard chilly bins (box design) with a stainless braid manifold are fine - you don't need an expensive Rubbermaid cooler plus or minus false bottom for your mash tun.  My standard efficiency fly sparging a 20L 1040-1075 batch with a 45L igloo is 80%.  If you see a set up with one of these for sale don't let it put you off buying.

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Permalink Reply by Liam Callaghan on March 12, 2013 at 7:24am

Hey Mike,

We will be selling purpose built frames in the next month or so.  We are looking at both stainless and steel.  Single, double and triple tier.  A bit of work in designing them so they are good value.  Also looking at flatpacks and bolt together options which should improve shipping rates.

First two designs are in beta with the engineer atm but on a back burner until we get the pressure lid sorted out on the fermenters.

Might be another option in the wings too, will keep you posted.

If you are after one I'll happily discuss a good price for prototype testing.

Liam

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Permalink Reply by Chris Banks on March 12, 2013 at 8:50am

Some great advice/options flying around in this thread!

I would also echo what Karl suggested when it comes to getting things welded.

And add that especially when getting fittings welded to expensive stainless vessels make sure that the welder has at least some experience in this area - maybe mentioning sanitary welding or purge welding if you get a blank look grab your vessels and go....

I have seen quite a few welded disasters lately which could have been avoided by a little planning in this department.

Once the stainless is blackened and burnt there is little that can be done to rectify it short of cutting out the burnt section and starting again which isnt always possible/convenient otherwise its probably a case of living with it assuming it doesnt leak.

Of course frame or stand welding need not be sanitary it just needs to be strong and tidy

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Permalink Reply by Liam Callaghan on March 12, 2013 at 10:24am

Yeah these are some of my favourite threads!   Especially the detailed understanding from people like yourself that know the ins and outs of using the materials.  For me I have to go on my engineers experience which is neat for me and I think he likes it as I give him fun stuff to design (plus a few kegs of beer).

I've had other stuff made though which has been rough as guts so worth getting a test piece made and check the quality with another engineer.  That or use a known resource like Chris.

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