How to add permanent volume marking to a kettle
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Barry on
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I'm doing this, but for it to be accurate I'll have to get my vessels finished (internal fittings will play a part in volume calculations).
I'll let y'all know how it goes.
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Permalink Reply by Darren Wood on
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I just did this—the hardest part was taping off the markings... I opted to make a stencil rather than using tape... I would probably just use tape next time as the stencil was a pain to make and slipped around a bit during the process. Perhaps the best way would be to add your tape (duct/packaging) to the kettle then cut out the markings... Any other ideas on how best to do this next time?
Also—you only really need about a tablespoon of the vinegar/salt mixture.
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Awesome Darren, I need to get this done on 5 pots. How did you get the volumes? Jug of water for one and then measure the rest? Or did you fill the vessel every step? 1 litre increments?
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I used a 5L jug and put 5L markings. Alternatively you could use maths:
Volume of a cylinder = π × r² × h
Volume of my kettle = 3.1415 × 20² × 40 = ~50L
1cm cubed = 1ml
etc...
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Reckon 5l is granular enough Darren? Still deciding how close my lines are going to be, but I have a feeling anything more than a litre is going to bug me.
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For me (at my level of brewing skills) 5l is just fine. I think moving to litre markings would retire a different technique as I'm not sure how visible such thin (and closely packed) lines would be.
Worth trying though :)
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My plan is to borrow a friends sticker cutter thing (it's like a desktop printer) to make a long vinyl stencil/sticker, that way I should be able to make lines really fine and include volume labels every 5L. Mark a line at 15L (using weight measured water), start the stencil from there and put 1L marks all the way up to 45L. I'll use maths to get the exact distance between litre marks which will be piss easy to lay out using Illustrator. Hoping the cutter is accurate, if so, bingo.
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Oh sweet—that sounds mint.
Might have to try that myself....
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Sounds like we have the same 400x400 pots bro, I'm planning on using one stencil for both (vinyl sticker should be reusable). I'll pass it on when I'm done!
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Total legend—thanks :)
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Permalink Reply by Adam Thomas on
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Be aware that etching stainless steel can lead to corrosion if you don't passivate it afterwards:
Passivating stainless steel is pretty straightforward: You need some dry citric acid powder and water. Make a solution of 100g/L and expose the etched surface for a minimum of 30 minutes at room temp. The easiest way to do this is soak a clean rag in the solution and lie it over your etched surface. If you can heat it past 100F (37.8 °C) it will work faster. There is no harm in leaving it longer. Be sure the surface is nice and clean before you begin.
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