False Bottom or Braid

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Permalink Reply by MrC on February 10, 2013 at 10:19am

I agree with jt's approach.  I've never used a false bottom but I have used a manifold and a braided hose.  Both are great options but braided hose was cheaper.  Braided hose seems more inclined to give a stuck sparge though.

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Permalink Reply by Damon Colbert on February 10, 2013 at 3:46pm

Braid may lead to more stuck sparges than a manifold, but probably less than a false bottom.

I've had a couple stuck sparges, but nothing I couldn't have avoided by being patient, sparging slowly, and remembering to mash out.

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Permalink Reply by Scarrfie on February 10, 2013 at 4:13pm

Here is what I have to hand so I might have a crack without spending anything :-) Any recommendations as dimensions?  Will making it too big give me an excess of dead space? 

If I cut something similar to a figure eight but leave a flat spot in the middle to allow for penetration of the 3/4" thread then I can simply fold in two then fold the periphery over on itself twice to keep a clean edge. Although getting the threaded section in is the problem as that will need to be installed before the mesh goes on.

 The mesh is 415x1200mm so enough there to make the two I need.

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Permalink Reply by Scarrfie on April 12, 2013 at 3:47pm

Here is what I ended up doing guys. Great clear wort although a little slower than the bag. Holds the temps much better than a chilli bin though.

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Permalink Reply by Tilt on April 12, 2013 at 4:03pm

Nice work.  Theres next to no dead space in that tun. Bet its less mess than your chilly bin bag.  Couple of questions:

• What profile did you cut on the end of the copper pickup tube? 
• Have you bent it down to meet the bottom of the pot or is it just a straight cutoff? 
• How quickly can you drain off.... and any stuck sparges? 
• Have you insulated this or do you keep the temps up by turning it on and stirring?

Cheers.

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Permalink Reply by Scarrfie on April 12, 2013 at 5:26pm

That is just a plain & straight length of Copper Tilt. Reason why no bend to get the mesh clean on the bottom was that to put the assembly in through the narrow mouth( 110mm)  & out for cleaning was half the figuring out. The copper slides inside the tap hole and then when the mesh is in place slides into the black fitting in the mesh. Black fitting is a 1/2 plastic cap bored to size, and the brass one is a crox style with the copper ring inside it just done up finger tight. Brass fitting come compliments of Jamie Roberts, thanks to Jamie for that particular idea as I was just going to use plastic there as well.

I didn't time the run off but probably double the time of the bag. Not so bad as I can get the results of the first sparge on the stove while the second is in progress. I didn't have any problems with the sparges being stuck at all. I did find I could speed it up by giving it a bit of a stir every so often. If I only stirred the top the filter bed didn't even stop working.

These urns are insulated and is why I bought them. Heck they would have to run to a couple of hundred each if done new. I did initially think they had an element but even without I thought a good deal. Obviously the insulation is quite good whatever is in there. Hard to make out from the image but the depth around the mouth is 50mm and the sides 25mm.

I am very happy with the result overall and especially only losing a degree over the course of an hour. You are right about minimal dead space. Only thing I have to do next time is add in another couple of litres as I can't squeeze the bag now :-) 

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