brand new 19L corny kegs

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Permalink Reply by Josh Carter on November 26, 2011 at 4:37pm

Hi There,

 

I am still importing kegs but mainly the euro spec 30 and 50L units.

The factory does produce the cornys but I would need an order in excess of 100 units to make it worth while, thats why i havnt persued it further.

 

Cheers,

Josh

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Permalink Reply by Sam on November 13, 2012 at 9:20pm

Has anyone here got one of these 19 litre ones? 

I was tempted to try one just like this (keg king on the lid) for less worries about pre-existing damage etc harbouring any nasties that could infect the beer, as-well as it looking mint on the outside and easy to use. Just been inspecting the interior though and the design has me a bit concerned / disappointed.  Unlike the corny kegs where the welds and joins are done in a way that helps with sanitation (smooth without cracks etc), on these ones the top and bottom have been slid onto the main body and tack welded on. This leave an overlapping area that hasn't been sealed/welded for bacteria and gunk to hide that you cant scrub or see, only option for this seems to be give it a good soak and hope all the nasties are out of the overlapping sheets.

Its a shame because apart from that (and a few finish issue) they would be great kegs

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Permalink Reply by mattd2 on November 19, 2012 at 8:43am

Look at post 14 and 15 here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56545

Some pictures and details of the Keg King kegs.

Josh what brand kegs are you bringing in and are they the same as the ones in the pictures it the thread I linked to? i.e. the ends are overlapped and stiched on.

Really I have no idea why they would design them like this, I know chiness like to use labour over machinary but an orbital welder would crank those suckers out and do a proper butt weld for the ends!

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Permalink Reply by Sam on November 19, 2012 at 8:07pm

Cheers for the info

After posting I also ran a magnet over the keg and it appears its not all stainless steel. Parts including the keg posts (in and out), pressure release valve pin, lip around the keg lid hole, and bottom and top welding lines attract the magnet. 

In comparison nothing at all on the real corny keg attracted the magnet

For now at least I'l stick to picking out the old corny kegs and take back the new one

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Permalink Reply by mattd2 on November 19, 2012 at 8:47pm

Don't be fooled, stainless steel can still attrach a magnet (normally not as strong as carbon steel though).

400 series SS is magnetic, this is used in "cheap" kegs as for the normal use (beer) it is stainless enough.

The normal 300 series (304 & 316 are the usual) can show magnitism due to cold work - where the keg has been shaped in the top/bottom. Welding can also affect the base material and cause magnetism. Also cast fittings tend to have a bit more XXXX (can't remember exactly what element) which causes them to be slightly magnetic too. The cast material specs are CF8 or CF8M for a similar material to 304 & 316 respectivly.

I just ran a rare earth magnet over my cornies and it was slightly magnetic in all the places you mention. When I say slighly I mean it will hold the 4mm diameter magnet in place, but that is in comparision where these suckers are a mission to get off of a fridge!

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Permalink Reply by Sam on November 20, 2012 at 9:05pm

Its the bad design (overlaps etc) rather than the magnetism that puts me off this keg

Don't have the keg to check any more but sounds like it might just be the pressure release valve that's not stainless then, from memory this was the only strongly magnetic bit that reacted like steel (took the ring off and valve out so it didn't interfere with result).

Repeated test with a different magnet (nothing close to your magnets power still) on the real corny keg which showed some very slight magnetism. On the new keg it was the amount of magnetism that I didn't expect, much more than the real corny - but still far less than steel, apart from prv), although most of the stainless is probably fine it seems to indicate that the corny might have better stainless?

A few questions

Does welding and cold shaping just cause magnetism then or make it less stainless as well?

Other than using a magnet as an indicator are there any better methods? ( gives a good indication - my weak magnet has very low effect on what seems to be high quality stainless i.e corny keg, bit more effect on other stainless to varying degrees, all the way to steel which it'l pick up or try)

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