Want to place an ad email luke@realbeer.co.nz
$50+GST / month

RealBeer.co.nz

Just got a keg set up and just about a carb up my first lot. After much research I have decided that I will set my pressure to 10psi and leave it to carbonate in the fridge for a week at about 2 or 3 degrees.

I have some questions about beer line length and co2 line length. It seems there is quite a science to this and I need some help determining lengths. I have about 3m of line (I'm not entirely sure what daiamata) and I plan to use this for beer and co2 line. The reason I'm having issues working out line length is because I will be using a picnic tap and most formular seem to require a height difference between the top of the keg an the tap. I'll just have my entire setup siting in the fridge and the tap will most likely sit on the bottom at the base of the keg but will be lifted up when poured from.

Can you see my conndrum? Any suggestions?

Also is there any requirements for co2 line length? The co2 bottle will be sitting right next to the keg in the fridge.

Views: 3020

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Faucet hieght should be taken when pouring (measured from the mid point of the keg - that way you are slightly over for half / slightly under for the other)

You really need to know what diameter your tube is. Most US sites recommend 10'/3m of 3/16 tube, which is slightly less than 5mm, going to 5mm tube (easily available at you local Bunnings et al) you need more (and it is not proportional). Going to 4mm tube you need less but good luck getting 4mm tube onto 1/4" barbs which is what most QD/picnic taps I have seen have. Currently I have one picnic tap with about 3m of 4mm tube which is stuffed into pieces 6mm tube attached to the barbs and then cable tied tight. The other has about 10m of 5mm line and is a bit more finicky to get ballanced.

Don't worry about CO2 length, just make it easy enough to move around, etc.

I'm fairly sure it's 6mm line that I have. What length would you recommend?
I had a shit of a time balancing the system when I started kegging and had a lot of (now lost) good info.
It's all a balancing act of carbonation required, temperature, line length and resistance
A quick google brings this up one that looks like it has everything you need to consider.
http://beersmith.com/blog/2011/07/14/keg-line-length-balancing-the-...
That said, nothing ever works out exactly as planned!
I have a couple of excel spreadsheets with all the calculations in them, whats your email address I can send them to you?
Cannell.paul@gmail.com

Thanks

on its way

I struggled with this for ages before I got put onto a solution by Ultraflow in Tauranga - they spec what they call a 'choke' which is a 2m length of 1/4" OD John Guest line between the keg and tap in my kegerator. It completely solved all my beer line issues. It seems to be a good balance even with the differing pressures required for carbing ales and lagers etc

The 8mm OD line just didn't have enough resistance, even with 4m.

And my recommendation is to go with with the John Guest fittings, even though it requires corny disconnects with flare fittings - heaps more flexible and no messing about with forcing beer line over barbs and clamping.

I agree, if I was to buy anymore QDs I would be gettin the flared fittings, then get some smaller flared barbs or go the JG route.

I'm sure you will all be discarded to hear that I'm winging it with the 2m line I have. Will see how that goes and make some chanes if I have to. I'll let you know how I get on in a week.

I have 1.5m on each of my taps, the science suggested about 4 m of beer line, the seperate regs and spot on carbonting and she pours like a charm, I originally got caught up in the whole fluid dynamics, then went back to basics and what do you know beer comes out of the taps cold and it tastes good, what more could you want of a fridge

Yea great. I also know some others who hadn't even heard of balancing and they seem to be doing alright. Hoping for the best.
Thanks.

I found this article in BYO the most useful as it explains the whole equation. A lot of people don't take into account the resistance from taps and shanks. Even a picnic tap adds 0.5psi resistance.

You often don't need as much line as you think, and by choosing a smaller ID beer line you waste less beer if you leave it sitting. With the smaller ID lines you just need a kettle with boiling water to soften it and a bit of welly to fit it over the barb.

RSS

© 2024   Created by nzbrewer.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service