Brewing Techniques - BIAB etc.
http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/recipe-advice-thread?c...
As an interesting discussion broke out regarding Mashing Techniques, I figured this could make a good separate thread.
My process is BIAB, no sparging, making the day of brewing that bit shorter. I use a 50 Litre pot, to mash, and boil in. for standard 20L batches.
I keep the temp consistent by using 2x Camping mats from Kmart at $10 each, and wrap up using bungy cords. normally lose maybe 2 degrees C after an hour mash time. (I brew in the morning too, so its cooler.)
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Hamish Jones on
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Funnily enough I didn't really, I gave some to a client of mine who owns a vineyard and they loved it, so that rules out my palate as the offending article, I must get a PH meter and actually check these things tough and get a little more technical,
I have intentionally stayed away from science as I didn't want to over complicate things until I got everything else dialled in, and in all honesty a few shite beers but in general they've all come out pretty darn good, and even the shite ones when compared side by side to crafty buggers seemed to be excellent,
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Permalink Reply by Dave W on
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Heh heh check out the brewing technique described in this trade me advert!
Mmm sounds so tasty! Bahahahahahahaha
http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/food-beverage/other/auction-65...
Stout brew has been a favorite of beer drinkers throughout the world. Now you can make your own stout brew in the comfort of your own home. The following steps will produce a basic, 2 gallon batch of stout brew. You can choose to add or remove any of the ingredients.
* 1
Soak the barley in 6 cups of water. After 10 minutes, boil the water with the barley in it.
* 2
Take the grains out of the water when it begins to boil. Place them in an additional bowl so they can cool. The grain and pot used for boiling will be extremely hot. Use appropriate protection when handling these items.
* 3
Add extract and boiling hops into the boiling water. Boil for 1 hour.
* 4
Add moss after 45 minutes of boiling.
* 5
Add hops after boiling and soak for 15 minutes.
* 6
Cool the mixture and drain excess yeast and other ingredients. The remaining liquid after the draining process is your stout home brew.
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I wonder if he has any other winning brew recipes up his sleeve
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Permalink Reply by Crusader-Rob on
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Theres a good chance he does.
Good Weyermann article on the acid malt. Might have to have a bit of a play around. is my theory correct, that if I add this it will reduce my pH and as such I'll get clearer wort.... possibly.
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does the beer get hazier as it warms up, or is it a bit hazy at all temps?
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It clears as it wamrs, but still pretty hazy, you can see theres a protein that struggles to drop out.
ISo theres chill haze.
Theres hop haze (It's an APA, of course there is.)
so I'm sticking some acid malt in there to test my theory.not much just a wee tester.
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Gelatine and a cold crash and you'll be good as new, never bothered myself but a lot of guys swear by it, or pretend it's English and drink it warm
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Permalink Reply by Ralph on
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Hmmm I was thinking about a comment earlier in this thread about a stainless BIAB system... and started thinking about stainless mesh options... Found this http://www.xcluder.co.nz/products/wire-mesh/10-sales/11-bee-mesh.html
Any other stainless mesh type options that could be used to make the "bag" out there?
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I got something similar from steel and tube but it looks ugly when its bent into shape, when I go to a bigger pot I am going to use stainless perf to make a basket
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Permalink Reply by mattd2 on
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From the Steel and tube Stainless catalogue - maybe from #11 - #13 (around a 1mm hole size) and less than 1 kg per sq.m. (probably just over 1 kg for the "bag"). I need to talk to a fabricator on Monday so might ask him for a rough price.
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Yep. Maybe a "tube" from perforated SS sheet and the base made from a fine mesh? Designed to fit in a pot?
Fecken flash BIAB!
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Have you had a look at the braumeister its basically the flash basket you speak of and it's $3500 AUD for a 50L unit, heaps of guys in Aussie going away from 3V and into these things, I was thinking about doing a double BIAB rig as I have pushed the limits of mine for batch size and its a real arse for anything over 40L, so thought a side by side rig, that way could do double batches or two different brews really easily,
It's quite timely this discussion as for the last year and more so in the last few weeks I have been trying to find a reason to go to 3V and other than to experience a stuck sparge and have something big and shiny I can't find any really beneficial reason to go that way, BIAB rules
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