Electric Brewing Setup
Over the past 2 weeks or so I have been looking at making my system fully electric. My proposed setup is as follows:
3000W Element from Ebay, $22 USD with free shipping. According to my calculations, it comes under the Ultra Low Watt Density designation, so it won't scorch the wort. I have also looked at the Camco 3500W ULWD Element from Amazon, which is what I have seen many other brewers using. However, it is around two times the price of the element on Ebay. I have checked my circuit breakers, and all of the wall socket circuits are rated for 20A, so I should be fine there.
To control the element, I intend to construct a box with a standard 3 pin input, leading to a PID, which will control an SSR that will switch the current going to a male IEC socket. Here are some pictures of something similar:
As you can see, the output used in this box is a female socket, which leaves exposed pins, which is not good.
I have done some reading up on the PIDs, and it seems that the cheap Ebay PIDs are not worth the hassle, as they will have compatibility issues with both the temperature probes I intend to use, and they will not natively control an SSR. Many brewers recommend the 'Auber' brand PIDs. These are more expensive, but seem to have less issues. They also have manual control over output, which means you can control boil intensity. The model I am looking at is the SYL-2352.
I think any SSR will do, as long as it is 15A or over and is capable of handling 250V. Is there any downfalls to using a 40A SSR when a 25A SSR would do fine, such as lower efficiency, etc? There are hundreds of SSRs for sale on Ebay, most of them are the same as the one in the picture above. They're only $5 or so, so that's no big deal.
I will probably use a PT100 temperature probe, which has three wires coming from it. Could a 3.5mm jack be used for quick swapping of probes?
So, does this seem like a good setup? Anything wrong here?
Lastly, if I do go through with this, I will most likely be ordering an Auber PID. If anyone would like to order one with me, we could split the shipping costs. Thanks in advance for any help.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Vesku on
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Yep, that sounds right. After you hit 100C, there's nothing to measure with any kind of "thermostat".
The only way to adjust how intense the boil is, is to control the amount of the power, not the time the power is on or off.
In my 34L boil kettle, that is well insulated, 1.5kW is enough for vigorous rolling boil. My next setting is 2.25kW and that is good for nice boil overs...
Depending on Nick's kettle size, a solution with two heating elements, one on all the time and the other behind the simmerstat may work just fine.
For the HLT, PID or something similar...
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Permalink Reply by Nick T on
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Interesting point re the non-heat sink effect that chris pointed out. Will let you know how it goes in a few weeks! I have an 80L pot for double batches so boil overs shouldn't be a problem I hope. For the HLT I am using a craftbrewer.com.au crown urn ( my old BIAB setup) set at 100 deg but plugged into a tempmate or mashmaster with its probe in a thermowell. If the on/ off nature of the controller is too crude I guess I will have to swap over to a PID for that.
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Permalink Reply by Clinton on
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Ok guys, a bit of an update:
I just had a ~4800W load running through the circuit that I plan to use for the setup, and all went well. However, this does not prove that it will be ok at that load for long periods of time, but it should be fine. I also received my 50L stainless pot last night, which I am now in the process of insulating. For now it's just foam mat/pad, but I may get something more suited to this application in the future.
I will probably be ordering myself a 15A socket, plug, and some 2.5mm2 cable from Electrical Direct tomorrow, unless any retail stores have it cheaper.
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Hold off on the sockets etc too. A 4800W load will draw more than 15amps (4800 / 230 = 20.8 amp)
Breakers will let you go a bit over the current rating, but the further you go the quicker the thermal overload will trip, can trip after hours ( maybe part way through your brew), or not at all if its low enough. Pushing it with a 20 amp breaker, and the sparky may want to change the 20amp to a 16amp breaker if your using 2.5mm (new rules)
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The element I've ordered is only 3000W, and in conjunction with the regulator; it can only draw less. 3000 / 230=13A, so it'll be ok, even on full load. The 4800W load I spoke of was a test I did.
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Sweet should be fine current wise then
If its a 220V one might end up closer to 14.3A because its only 3000W when your putting 220v across it, still a bit under 15A though so if your using good quality 15A parts such as PDL should be fine.
For anyone using 220v elements keep in mind when you put a higher voltage across it than its rating you will draw more amps than you might expect
P/V = I won't tell you how much current you will draw when the power has been calculated with a different voltage, you need to use I = V/R (R won't be the same when your elements cold)
With Clintons element above as an example the element is rated at 3000W at 220v and you may find it draws about 14.26A not 13A, and gives you 3280W if it has 230V, slightly more if you have a slightly more voltage at your outlet.
R = V squared / P , so a 220v 3000w rated element is 16.13 ohms when hot (the temp the manufacture used)
Then I = V / R so 230 / 16.13 is 14.26 amps
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Another update:
Received my element today. I did a very short test run on the standard 10A socket, and it works brilliantly. Going to drill holes in the boil kettle this weekend and get it fitted. The element also comes with high temp silicone washer seals, which I was not expecting. That's great as I thought I was going to have to hunt some down. It should be finished within a couple of weeks, and then I can finally do my first all electric brew!
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Permalink Reply by Stu H on
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Hey dudes, great info in here. I'm just about to order an Ebay PID + SSR + sensor... What are you guys using for thermal grease?
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I've 2 PID's and 2 SSR's that I don't use anymore. PM, if u r interested. + a lot of thermal pair sensors....
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