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Dip tubes/inlets done, thanks to the kind lend of a pipe bender by Peter Smith – cheers!

Made short work of some bloody hard stainless, and good learning – last one is the best one.

kettle inlet/whirlpool:

HLT inlet:

HLT outlet/dip tube. Really hope this isn't too close to the bottom such that it slows the flow, there's about 5mm gap from the bottom.

Views: 638

Comment by Brett Mason on March 31, 2014 at 12:32pm

Nice. I've got a similar bazooka screen set aside for my kettle. Any concerns with it clogging up due to hops/trub?

Comment by Barry on March 31, 2014 at 12:37pm

I'll let you know.

I'm hoping it's fine, especially with the whirlpool hopefully coning the trub into the centre.

Comment by Scott H on April 1, 2014 at 6:53pm
I got one of those in my kettle and it doesn't block up. Haven't tried it with anything hoppy yet only the Hellesbock I just did.
How goes the electrics Barry?
My first pod arrived thus morning so looking forward to some tinkering this weekend.
Comment by Barry on April 2, 2014 at 8:32am

I decided to go the full 3 PIDs and a timer.

I originally wasn't going to do any of that but I figure in for a penny etc...

The PID I got is the Auber SWA-2451 with built in timer (hoping to use it to start heating water in the morning before I wake up, or before I get home from work etc).

The mash and kettle PIDs will be Sestos, I don't need them to be fancy. I considered getting the ramp/soak Auber one but I just can't see myself ever needing step mashes.

The timer is this one.

So I still have a bunch of stuff to order, a bit more stainless (for the unforeseen extra pump and extra hoses), 2 PIDs and SSRs, timer and 2 more probes. Also going to get the upgraded deluxe cable for the PID I already got, not springing for that in the first place was the worst decision ever.

Comment by mattd2 on April 2, 2014 at 3:29pm

Careful with the Sestos PID Barry. I have one and the control period can not be set below 8 seconds. It is not a huge issue for me as it is just my BK control (which also heats my strike/sparge water). Might be an issue for RIMS, not sure for a HERMS setup - probably enough thermal mass that it doesn't matter much.

Comment by Barry on April 2, 2014 at 3:38pm

I'll have one firing the BK (manual mode) and the other merely measuring temp from mash outlet.

The Auber will be keeping the HLT to temp. Which model number is the one you have Matt? I've only heard/read great things, essentially every bit the the equivalent of an Auber SYL-2352, just without being able to show fahrenheit.

Comment by Barry on April 2, 2014 at 3:47pm

Looking at the d1s-vr220 manual (the unit I'm looking for) the sampling period is 0.5s and the control period can be set between 0 and 120s (0 effectively 0.5s). Is that the model you have?

Comment by mattd2 on April 2, 2014 at 4:27pm

Yep same one - I have only found one other source of information that has had a similar issue http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/has-anyone-had-sestos-pid-controlle...

Might be a specific batch only since there is not more people noticing it. The other option for cheaper PIDs is the MYPIN TD4

Comment by Barry on April 2, 2014 at 4:40pm

Yeah interesting. Manual definitely states something different, seems like a defect to me. Consider myself warned. I see that post is from 2012, how long ago did you get yours?

Comment by Scott H on April 2, 2014 at 5:39pm
I got the same ones as on the electric brewery but the model with 230v out as I'm not using dc relays. Also got the deluxe cable Hoping to order the other 2 I need in the next month or so. Then it's just pots pumps coil and hose.

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