All Discussions Tagged 'mash' - RealBeer.co.nz2024-03-28T20:37:04Zhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=mash&feed=yes&xn_auth=noMash Lengthtag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2016-06-16:1500433:Topic:2328912016-06-16T21:33:30.464ZDarren Woodhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/DarrenWood
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I've been seeing (and hearing) a fair amount of conflicting ideas with regards to mash length... Anyone out there done really short mashes with good results? Like 15-20min mashes? Does a short mash length like that only work for certain grains/grain bills?</p>
<p>Thoughts?</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>D</p>
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I've been seeing (and hearing) a fair amount of conflicting ideas with regards to mash length... Anyone out there done really short mashes with good results? Like 15-20min mashes? Does a short mash length like that only work for certain grains/grain bills?</p>
<p>Thoughts?</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>D</p> Nelson Water Profile?tag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2015-04-02:1500433:Topic:2180962015-04-02T10:54:31.068ZMatt Downerhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/MattDowner
<p>Hey there,</p>
<p>Been a while since posting on here. I have started to think about improving my end result beer by improving the overall quality of my tap water depending on the style of beer I brew. Obviously, that starts with knowing what minerals and numbers are in the water and also PH for making a happy mash.</p>
<p>So, does anyone out there reckon they could offer me their mineral numbers on the Nelson tap water?</p>
<p>Hey there,</p>
<p>Been a while since posting on here. I have started to think about improving my end result beer by improving the overall quality of my tap water depending on the style of beer I brew. Obviously, that starts with knowing what minerals and numbers are in the water and also PH for making a happy mash.</p>
<p>So, does anyone out there reckon they could offer me their mineral numbers on the Nelson tap water?</p> Hefeweizen - Decoction Step Mashtag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2013-11-06:1500433:Topic:1910462013-11-06T00:33:02.302Zoliverhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/oliver98
<p>Hey guys,<br></br>So I went to a great brewpub (Speindel's) in Germany recently and the brewer was kind enough to detail his hefeweizen recipe and mash schedule for me. I'd like to have a go at roughly following his recipe and process out of interest. His recipe/advice (roughly):</p>
<ul>
<li>At least 30% barley (half pils, half munich)</li>
<li>Rest wheat</li>
<li>Hallertau for bittering</li>
</ul>
<p>My recipe:</p>
<ul>
<li>55% Wheat (Gladfields)</li>
<li>32% Pils (Gladfields)</li>
<li>12%…</li>
</ul>
<p>Hey guys,<br/>So I went to a great brewpub (Speindel's) in Germany recently and the brewer was kind enough to detail his hefeweizen recipe and mash schedule for me. I'd like to have a go at roughly following his recipe and process out of interest. His recipe/advice (roughly):</p>
<ul>
<li>At least 30% barley (half pils, half munich)</li>
<li>Rest wheat</li>
<li>Hallertau for bittering</li>
</ul>
<p>My recipe:</p>
<ul>
<li>55% Wheat (Gladfields)</li>
<li>32% Pils (Gladfields)</li>
<li>12% Munich (Gladfields)</li>
<li>Wakatu for bittering</li>
</ul>
<p>I don't want to go quite as dark + bready as his, but I think the munich complements the clove nicely so I want a bit of that character in here.</p>
<p>Now for the mash schedule (he was talking very fast in German so I think I missed a few things :p):</p>
<ol>
<li>Dough in at 30 deg C</li>
<li>Raise temp at rate of 1 deg C per minute to 52 deg C</li>
<li>15 min rest at 52 deg C</li>
<li>Raise temp fast to 68 deg (first decoction I presume)</li>
<li>Raise to 72 deg after 30min (second decoction, 7 minutes I think?)</li>
<li>Mash out at 78 deg C then lauter</li>
</ol>
<p>Should have taken better notes :p, also didn't ask him about liquor/grist ratios...</p>
<p>So I'm keen to give this a go on my equipment. I don't care too much if some of these steps are unnecessary, I want to do this out of interest.</p>
<p>So I'm planning to use my 90L electric boil kettle for a 45L batch size using a bazooka screen for lautering. Width:depth ratio is 1:1.</p>
<p>I plan to treat the barley portion of the grist with water the night before and do a careful, coarse crush.</p>
<p>A few firsts for me:</p>
<ul>
<li>First time using my boil kettle as a mash tun</li>
<li>First time doing such a complicated step mash </li>
</ul>
<p>Using the boil kettle as a mash tun I can raise the temp using decoction, infusion or direct using the elements.</p>
<p>Here's my plan at the moment:</p>
<ol>
<li>Dough in at 30 deg C (2.1L/Kg) (2 tsp CaCl)</li>
<li>Raise to 52 deg C using infusion (6.5L/Kg) (feed the mash hot water regularly), hold for 15 min</li>
<li>Decoct 25L and boil for 7 min, hold at 68 deg C for 30 min (6.5L/Kg)</li>
<li>Decoct 10L and boil for 7 min, hold 72 deg C for 20 min (6.5L/Kg)</li>
<li>Mash out to 76 deg C using electric elements</li>
<li>Lauter</li>
</ol>
<p>Phew, it's going to be a big day. Does anyone have any tips to make things easier? I'm not sure about the liquor/grist ratios - I read somewhere that the lower steps work better with thicker mashes?</p>
<p>I could also go with a higher liquor/grist ratio and go with direct heat rather than infusion.</p>
<p>Am I missing any key steps for hefeweizens?</p>
<p>Any tips you guys might have would be great :)</p> Mash Tun - BIAB strainer bag?tag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2013-03-17:1500433:Topic:1741112013-03-17T04:27:31.872ZNztaylshttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/Nztayls
<p>Well, finally managed to do a half-decent job of converting a Coleman beverage into a mash tun. It now has a ball-valve installed, and now I just need to work out what to do on the inside. I was thinking of a false bottom from <a href="http://www.allgrain.co.nz">www.allgrain.co.nz</a>, or making a manifold out of steel mesh tubing. But then I thought, what about just using a BIAB bag? I already have one of these,...and as I am trying to convince my wife that my new hobby is cheap,...the…</p>
<p>Well, finally managed to do a half-decent job of converting a Coleman beverage into a mash tun. It now has a ball-valve installed, and now I just need to work out what to do on the inside. I was thinking of a false bottom from <a href="http://www.allgrain.co.nz">www.allgrain.co.nz</a>, or making a manifold out of steel mesh tubing. But then I thought, what about just using a BIAB bag? I already have one of these,...and as I am trying to convince my wife that my new hobby is cheap,...the costs are starting to mount up, and she is noticing.</p>
<p>Would there be anything wrong in lining the cooler with a mesh bag to act as a filter for the grain?. Seems a simple solution,...which leads me to think that there is probably some issue with it that I haven't considered. Oh, and I plan on batch sparging.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Mash Tun - Cooler Conversiontag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2013-03-13:1500433:Topic:1737922013-03-13T07:39:09.117ZNztaylshttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/Nztayls
<p>So I have been looking at making a Mash Tun out of a cooler, having seen that this seems to be a popular option in the US of A.</p>
<p>I managed to purchase a 5Gal Coleman Cooler, and yes, I know, 10 Gal would be better,...but they are hard to come by in NZ, and I am only doing 5Gal batches. So it will have to do.</p>
<p>The next thing is to get a ball-valve to replace the spigot in the bottom. I see alot of these advertised for Rubbermaid coolers, but not for Coleman ones. Has anyone done…</p>
<p>So I have been looking at making a Mash Tun out of a cooler, having seen that this seems to be a popular option in the US of A.</p>
<p>I managed to purchase a 5Gal Coleman Cooler, and yes, I know, 10 Gal would be better,...but they are hard to come by in NZ, and I am only doing 5Gal batches. So it will have to do.</p>
<p>The next thing is to get a ball-valve to replace the spigot in the bottom. I see alot of these advertised for Rubbermaid coolers, but not for Coleman ones. Has anyone done one of these before, or know where I can get the hardware from in New Zealand?. Probably be cheaper than buying it from the states. </p>
<p>Picture is of the cooler with the spigot assembly removed</p> Simple Things to Avoid When Kit Brewing –A.K.A. Don’t Listen to the Can!tag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2013-03-11:1500433:Topic:1728382013-03-11T10:25:31.347ZMikehttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/Mike317
<p><em><strong>Simple Things to Avoid When Kit Brewing –A.K.A. Don’t Listen to the Can!</strong></em></p>
<p><b><i><br></br></i></b> Hey guys, long time watcher first time poster. This is a resource…<span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0"></span></span></p>
<p><em><strong>Simple Things to Avoid When Kit Brewing –A.K.A. Don’t Listen to the Can!</strong></em></p>
<p><b><i><br/></i></b> Hey guys, long time watcher first time poster. This is a resource<span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2]"><span class="UFICommentBody" id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0"><span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[0]"><span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[0].[0]"> I've been working on for a while - a do/don't resource for first time kit brewers. After starting on terrible kit beers for about a year and a half it dawned on me that the advice given on the cans is the exact opposite of what you should be </span></span><span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3]"><span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3].0"><span id=".reactRoot[124].[1][2][1]{comment604821809532069_604822922865291}.0.[1].0.[1].0.[0].[0][2].0.[3].0.[0]">doing. Many kit brewers brew terrible beers when in fact, they could brew good beers with very little extra effort, just a different method. I don't brew with kits any more but this should help those that do, and much of the advice transfers to well to extract/partial and AG brews. I've put this up as a resource on the Chch homebrew club facebook, as well as the UC brew club, and am after any advice Most of the background info comes from Brewing Network podcasts, Jamil/JP etc, but some of it is based on personal experience and inference. If anyone has any suggestions/corrections post here, but keep it simple for first time brewers (ie yeast starters etc are probably a bit advanced/an extra step of effort for most first time kit brewers).</span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>- <strong>AVOID LAGER AND CERVESA KITS!</strong></strong> As a general rule, the lighter the beer, the harder it is to hide mistakes in the brewing process. Cheap lager kits (think Coopers/Black Rock Lager) have nothing much in the way of flavour (like most commercial lagers!) and even when brewed well can come out thin. Regardless of your personal drinking habits, you are better to go for fuller flavour kits: amber, brown, real and dark ales, porters, stouts and IPAs. Anything but a lager. (JR - Realbeer): <em>When it comes to kits fresh is best. Get them as new as possible and if it is past its use by date then use it for making starters or throw it away.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>CLEAN THEN SANITISE EVERYTHING</strong> that’s not being boiled. What Brewtec sells as ‘No Rinse Sanitiser’ is actually a cleaner, Sodium Percarbonate. You need to soak/store your fermenter/bottles/anything-that-needs-sanitation in this solution, then sanitise with a sanitiser. Sodium Metabisulphite is the most common, but it need to dry to be effective. Iodophor or Starsan are ideal, and can be purchased from brewshop.co.nz. The four most important things to remember about good brewing are: Cleaning, Sanitation, Sanitation, Sanitation!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T USE A WHOLE KILO OF TABLE SUGAR/DEXTROSE</strong> in the boil or in the fermenter. Too much sugar (along with hot fermentation, see below) is the primary cause of acetaldehyde (a cidery ‘bad homebrew’ off-flavour) and diacetyl. The yeast will eat the sugar first and will not properly ferment the malt. You are better off to ditch the sugar and just brew a half batch (11.5L) with kit only, or stretch it to 15L with 150g sugar. If you want to make 23L, use two kits or get some malt extract! <span> (JR - Realbeer): <em>Try a 1.5kg kit with 500g light DME and 500g brew enhancer for 18.9L. 2 kits can come out too bitter because you got twice the bittering hops.</em><em> </em></span></p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>BOIL YOUR KIT <strong>(ARGUABLE)</strong></strong> in as much water as you can for at least 15mins to sterilise and dissolve the malt extract properly, in a large pot with a decent amount of headspace. Pour the extract in slowly and stir vigorously to prevent burning. Be careful as the extract will make the pot boil over very easily. Cool the pot in the sink and top up the fermenter with cold water (preferably pre-boiled and cooled or bottled bulk 10L spring water). You want the wort to be cold (17-18C) when you pitch the yeast. If you want to skip this step to save time you can. (From JR- Realbeer:)<em> I would boil the dry malt extract in as much water as you can (and possibly any hops you want to add) then add you actual kit at flame out. That gives it enough heat to dissolve and kill 99.??% of bugs while not messing with any late hops that were added in the kit making process.</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T USE KIT YEAST!</strong> Fermentis S-04 (English Ale) and US-05 (American Ale) are industry standard brewing yeasts that can be purchased for +/- $5 from Bin Inn and Your Shout. They are miles ahead of the yeast that tends to come with kits, giving cleaner flavours, better fermentation and more compacted yeast cake in the bottom of the fermenter and bottles. US-05 is my personal favourite and is used for most of 8 Wired’s beers now. Spend the $5 = better beer.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T PITCH DRY YEAST STRAIGHT INTO THE FERMENTER! </strong> Pitching dry kills about half of your yeast cells. If you’re only using a 5 gram kit yeast pack this means you will underpitch and the yeast will struggle to start fermenting quickly = possible infection, stuck fermentation and bad beer. Always rehydrate your yeast 20 mins before pitching in boiled, cooled water (20-30C – cool in the sink). This is not <em>as</em> essential if you buy 11.5g Fermentis yeast packs separately, but still very worthwhile. Healthy yeast = better beer.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T FERMENT OVER 21C!</strong> The can often says to ferment between 22-28C, with a higher temp giving a ‘faster ferment’. Fast is BAD. You actually need to ferment ale yeasts between 17-19C. Don’t bother using a heat pad if your beer is in this range, just leave it! Your beer will be better for it. In fact in most situations (apart from May-June-July) you usually want to <em>cool</em> your fermenter down to 18C. The cooler and more stable the fermentation, the cleaner the beer. You want to avoid spikes and drops in temperature, so sitting it in a large bucket filled with cold water in an insulated area (center of the house, broken chest freezer) is ideal. Better still, you can wrap the fermenter in a wet towel and let it wick up the water in the bottom of the bucket, the evaporation with knock a few degrees off the fermentation temperature. If it gets really hot, use a fan. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T STOP FERMENTING AFTER A WEEK!</strong> Yeast needs time to reabsorb the nasty by-products of fermentation, if you bottle after a week (or rack to secondary) you will remove the yeast from the wort and it will not be able to re-absorb off-flavour precursors. As a general rule, always stay in the primary fermentor for at least 2 weeks, 2 1/2 to 3 weeks if you can. A 4 week fermentation will not hurt the beer and will actually help clear and improve it. If you have a spare fridge, a 2-4 day crash cool to fridge temps (1-5C) before bottling will clear the beer still more. Secondary fermentation is not usually necessary and you risk oxidisation and contamination in transfer. Keep it simple and free up your fermenters for other brews.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>- <strong>DON’T DRINK AFTER TWO WEEKS IN THE BOTTLE!</strong> Your beer needs 3-4 weeks to properly carbonate and condition. Be patient. Keep the bottles in a warm place (hot water cupboard) if you can. The beer will continue to improve with time (hoppy flavours and aromas will start to drop off after a few months, however). Fridge for 24 hrs to better settle the beer, then decant slowly and steadily into a jug, leaving the yeast and about 1 cm of beer at the bottom.</p> chinese micro brewerytag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2012-03-06:1500433:Topic:1503622012-03-06T19:24:32.928Zdavid holdenhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/davidholden
<p>has anyone bought one of these chinese made micro brewerys, very cheap with control gear etc, when asked for more details on elements , control gear, glycol cooling etc no reply after agressive markets initially!!</p>
<p>has anyone bought one of these chinese made micro brewerys, very cheap with control gear etc, when asked for more details on elements , control gear, glycol cooling etc no reply after agressive markets initially!!</p> Two Vessel Two Tier Brewingtag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2012-02-13:1500433:Topic:1491902012-02-13T07:38:03.758ZMrChttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/MC
<p>After a bit of research and applying what I've learned over the past few years I decided to trial a two vessel brew setup. It's a basic proof of concept brew with not a lot of fancy bits and pieces and is still quite manual.<br></br></p>
<p>Here's the recipe:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/1500433:Topic:8?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A149016">http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/1500433:Topic:8?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A149016</a></p>
<p>Brew day went…</p>
<p>After a bit of research and applying what I've learned over the past few years I decided to trial a two vessel brew setup. It's a basic proof of concept brew with not a lot of fancy bits and pieces and is still quite manual.<br/></p>
<p>Here's the recipe:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/1500433:Topic:8?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A149016">http://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topics/1500433:Topic:8?commentId=1500433%3AComment%3A149016</a></p>
<p>Brew day went well, was quite relaxed and was all over in 4.5 hours.<br/></p>
<p>Here's the basic setup. Mash Lauter Tun on top with Kettle below and a pump just below the kettle. The pump is used to transfer from the kettle to the MLT and the MLT then gravity drains back into the kettle.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825973?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825973?profile=original" width="443" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 1:</strong> Heat the strike water in the kettle. In this case I heated 15L to 77C.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 2</strong>: Turn on the pump to circulate water around the system and preheat the mash tun.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825549?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825549?profile=original" width="606" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><strong><br/></strong></p>
<p><strong>Step 3</strong>: When the temp is up to strike temp, close the valve on the MLT and continue pumping strike water into the MLT until target mash water volume is reached.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825896?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825896?profile=original" width="528" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><strong><br/></strong></p>
<p><strong>Step 4:</strong> Turn off pump, close all valves and mash in.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825532?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004825532?profile=original" width="582" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><strong><br/></strong></p>
<p><strong>Step 5:</strong> Leave the mash to to sit while heating up the remaining water minus 1L per kg of grain. In this case I heated the remaining water to 67C. By this time the mash was 30mins in and was already fully converted.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 6:</strong> Begin full system recirculation sparge. Open all valves and start pump. I started with a slow flow rate to set the filter bed and then increased the rate until the recirculation rate from the pump matched that of the fully open valve on the MLT (gravity fed into the kettle).</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004826038?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004826038?profile=original" width="521" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 7:</strong> Turn on the heat in the kettle and let the temp rise up to mash out temp and continue recirculation until the gravity in the kettle equals the target OG.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 8:</strong> Turn off pump, close valve on kettle and let the MLT drain into the kettle.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004824775?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004824775?profile=original" width="654" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 9:</strong> Add the final sparge water of 1L per kg of grain to the MLT. This is based on the 'cold' water sparge theory where cold means not up to sparge temp. I decided to use 1L per kg of grain in an attempt to replace the wort that is absorbed by the grain with water. I used water straight from the hot tap which for me is around 60C. Seemed like a good idea during the planning phase. </p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong>Step 10:</strong> Drain into kettle untill desired preboil volume reached and boil as usual, etc, etc</p>
<p> </p>
<p>That's it! Let me know what you think and whether I can improve on anything.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cheers.</p>
<p> </p> First BIAB, mash out time...tag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2011-05-24:1500433:Topic:1137672011-05-24T01:41:48.086Zdavid wildhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/davidwild
<p>Hello everybody,</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">kids will be gone, jobs are ticked off-ish, so a free weekend :D. My question for you brewers is, when it comes to mash out time & 76-78*C is reached, is it best to remove the bag o grains straight away or hold off for X amount of minutes. The reading I've done can be conflicting, some don't say while others suggest up to 15min?. Whats the general consensus, cheers.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">started by David Wild. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Hello everybody,</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">kids will be gone, jobs are ticked off-ish, so a free weekend :D. My question for you brewers is, when it comes to mash out time & 76-78*C is reached, is it best to remove the bag o grains straight away or hold off for X amount of minutes. The reading I've done can be conflicting, some don't say while others suggest up to 15min?. Whats the general consensus, cheers.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">started by David Wild. </p>
<p> </p> SS Braided hose in Christchurchtag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2011-02-17:1500433:Topic:1038652011-02-17T22:21:10.342ZFraser Kennedyhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/FraserKennedy
Hi guys,<br />
<br />
Just getting the mash tun up and running and was wondering if anyone knew where to source parts in Christchurch, in particular ss braided hose. I'm guessing the ball lock valve and copper can be brought from most plumbing supplies?<br />
<br />
Any help is appreciated!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Fraser
Hi guys,<br />
<br />
Just getting the mash tun up and running and was wondering if anyone knew where to source parts in Christchurch, in particular ss braided hose. I'm guessing the ball lock valve and copper can be brought from most plumbing supplies?<br />
<br />
Any help is appreciated!<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Fraser