All Discussions Tagged 'Electric' - RealBeer.co.nz2024-03-29T11:09:19Zhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Electric&feed=yes&xn_auth=noElectric Heating Elementstag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2015-12-15:1500433:Topic:2288012015-12-15T03:15:16.380ZLuke Watkinshttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/LukeWatkins
<p>Hi All, I am new to the forum, so sorry in advance if this has been covered in another post.</p>
<p>I am in the process of building a 3x 50L Keg HERMS system. What sort of electric elements have most others used that are easy to obtain in NZ?</p>
<p>I have looked at the elements on theelectricbrewery.com and they seem overkill on wattage for my needs. Ideally I would like to keep the required wattage down so I don't need to up spec my supply.</p>
<p>At the moment I am looking at this and…</p>
<p>Hi All, I am new to the forum, so sorry in advance if this has been covered in another post.</p>
<p>I am in the process of building a 3x 50L Keg HERMS system. What sort of electric elements have most others used that are easy to obtain in NZ?</p>
<p>I have looked at the elements on theelectricbrewery.com and they seem overkill on wattage for my needs. Ideally I would like to keep the required wattage down so I don't need to up spec my supply.</p>
<p>At the moment I am looking at this and maybe the 3600W version.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.5stardistilling.net/element-guard-2400w/">http://www.5stardistilling.net/element-guard-2400w/</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p></p>
<p>Luke</p> Electric Brewery'stag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2014-02-20:1500433:Topic:1976722014-02-20T04:11:49.552ZScott Hhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/ScottHayward
<p>We spoke about creating a discussion so people who have or people who are thinking about and/or building can share pic's info and pitfalls to avoid.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Just about finished building my bench and hopefully will have a chance to start wiring it up this weekend. Pics to follow shortly.</p>
<p>We spoke about creating a discussion so people who have or people who are thinking about and/or building can share pic's info and pitfalls to avoid.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Just about finished building my bench and hopefully will have a chance to start wiring it up this weekend. Pics to follow shortly.</p> Electric Brewerytag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2013-01-25:1500433:Topic:1693562013-01-25T00:22:05.240ZCrusader-Robhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/CRUSADER1612
<p>Hi Everyone,</p>
<p>Its on my list of things to do, as I'm setting up a brewshed outthe back. (No I'm not building it, its essentially a garage, that wont fit a car in it, weird.)</p>
<p>anyways, it needs power so i can connect fridge and so on for fermentation, and I've been researching and thinking, that going all electric, would actually make sense, and I could become a bit more automated so to speak, less heavy lifting lugging things outside etc. its all in one place.... the list goes…</p>
<p>Hi Everyone,</p>
<p>Its on my list of things to do, as I'm setting up a brewshed outthe back. (No I'm not building it, its essentially a garage, that wont fit a car in it, weird.)</p>
<p>anyways, it needs power so i can connect fridge and so on for fermentation, and I've been researching and thinking, that going all electric, would actually make sense, and I could become a bit more automated so to speak, less heavy lifting lugging things outside etc. its all in one place.... the list goes on.<br/><br/>My current setup is as follows:</p>
<p>- 50lt Cooler Mash Tun, fitted with Bazooke Screen<br/>-50lt Stainless Steel Brew Pot, one of the cheaper thinner ones of trademe.<br/>- Immersion Chiller<br/>doing 19-23 litres batches mainly.<br/>I also have a 30lt pot, from the days of partial boil extract as well.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>So my thoughts were one of a couple of options... a couple of people are using Hot Water urns for E-BIAB, and thought maybe I could use 3 of these 40lt urns and turn them into a single tier 3-vessel system, as the taps apparantly come apart, and I can then fit thermowells etc. in there and have the ballvalve installed, along with some of the ideas from <a href="http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/">www.theelectricbrewery.com</a>, for probes and so on mainly.</p>
<p><br/>But then I thought I could possibly make it myself, using the existing items I have:<br/>30lt Pot as HLT <br/>Current mashtun either improve insulation or fit a pump and HERMS through HLT for Mash temp Stability, I think I'd like to do it, as it tends to skip a step for vorlaufing as well and creates ne clear, repeatable beer<br/>and 50lt boil kettle.</p>
<p>All fitted (apart from Mashtun) with Heating Elements, Temperature probes ball valves, and 1-2 pumps, possibly add another bazooka screen to the boil kettle to help filter out the trub?<br/><br/>Can anyone offer any advice, those who have E-Breweries, how does it work for you? what equipment do you have, and would what I'm saying actually work through the Cooler Tun?<br/>If anyone has done anything similar, an idea of what parts. you name it I want the information.</p> Electric Brewing Setuptag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2012-10-08:1500433:Topic:1634752012-10-08T11:46:48.550ZClintonhttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/Clinton
<p>Over the past 2 weeks or so I have been looking at making my system fully electric. My proposed setup is as follows:</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-3KW-Stainless-Steel-U-Shape-12mm-Electric-Heating-Element-Tube-/330794704409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d04e69e19" target="_blank">3000W Element from Ebay</a>, $22 USD with free shipping. According to my calculations, it comes under the Ultra Low Watt Density designation, so it won't scorch the wort. I have also…</p>
<p>Over the past 2 weeks or so I have been looking at making my system fully electric. My proposed setup is as follows:</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-220V-3KW-Stainless-Steel-U-Shape-12mm-Electric-Heating-Element-Tube-/330794704409?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d04e69e19" target="_blank">3000W Element from Ebay</a>, $22 USD with free shipping. According to my calculations, it comes under the Ultra Low Watt Density designation, so it won't scorch the wort. I have also looked at the Camco 3500W ULWD Element from Amazon, which is what I have seen many other brewers using. However, it is around two times the price of the element on Ebay. I have checked my circuit breakers, and all of the wall socket circuits are rated for 20A, so I should be fine there.</p>
<p></p>
<p>To control the element, I intend to construct a box with a standard 3 pin input, leading to a PID, which will control an SSR that will switch the current going to a male IEC socket. Here are some pictures of something similar:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/uploads/66823/GOPR0011.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/uploads/66823/GOPR0011.jpg" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/uploads/66823/GOPR0004.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.fishing.net.nz/asp_forums/uploads/66823/GOPR0004.jpg" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>As you can see, the output used in this box is a female socket, which leaves exposed pins, which is not good.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I have done some reading up on the PIDs, and it seems that the cheap Ebay PIDs are not worth the hassle, as they will have compatibility issues with both the temperature probes I intend to use, and they will not natively control an SSR. Many brewers recommend the <a href="http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1" target="_blank">'Auber' brand PIDs</a>. These are more expensive, but seem to have less issues. They also have manual control over output, which means you can control boil intensity. The model I am looking at is the <span>SYL-2352.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>I think any SSR will do, as long as it is 15A or over and is capable of handling 250V. Is there any downfalls to using a 40A SSR when a 25A SSR would do fine, such as lower efficiency, etc? There are hundreds of SSRs for sale on Ebay, most of them are the same as the one in the picture above. They're only $5 or so, so that's no big deal.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>I will probably use a PT100 temperature probe, which has three wires coming from it. Could a 3.5mm jack be used for quick swapping of probes?</span></p>
<p></p>
<p>So, does this seem like a good setup? Anything wrong here?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Lastly, if I do go through with this, I will most likely be ordering an Auber PID. If anyone would like to order one with me, we could split the shipping costs. Thanks in advance for any help.</p> Electric Brewingtag:www.forum.realbeer.co.nz,2010-02-26:1500433:Topic:791922010-02-26T09:43:46.640ZJames Phttp://www.forum.realbeer.co.nz/profile/James
I have been researching the hell out of setting up the electric brewery and have been buying bits and pieces to get my rig underway, but my issue is what to do next... beside procrastinating!<br></br><br></br>I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.<br></br><br></br>Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there…
I have been researching the hell out of setting up the electric brewery and have been buying bits and pieces to get my rig underway, but my issue is what to do next... beside procrastinating!<br/><br/>I have 3kW elements for the HLT and kettle. I am thinking (as per Sparky's comments on the trademe thread) that a temp controller for HLT and a PID for kettle.<br/><br/>Ebay has a couple of cheap PID controllers with Ktype thermos. It also has some thermowells out of the US. (Bling!) While there is a NZ supplier (Thermowellsupply.com) but they are yet to reply to me. I could make my own out of SS tube and SS bolts drilled out, but thermowells / thermocouples make me horny.... I mean look cool and would make the job easier.<br/><br/>Firstly I would like to introduce Frankenframe. Once he was the backbone of a processing conveyor belt worked 20 years for the man, now he is the is reborn as my brewing frame (also known as Rodney). Angled galvanised steel, yet to be painted and completed. Two tiers, and will have wheels etc.<br/><br/><p style="text-align: left;"><img style="width: 573px; height: 429px;" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004803481?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<br/><br/>My idea for the rig (the frame is having the final welding done tonight as long as the welder doesn't drink too much of my beer):<br/><br/><p style="text-align: left;"><img style="width: 405px; height: 303px;" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004802842?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">And the controller:</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><img style="width: 389px; height: 291px;" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/1004803127?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">I'm looking for feedback, in particular if you have ideas in relation to the controller. (Oops just realised I missed the pump control from the controller, nuts.)</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">More photos etc to come as Frankenframe goes through the motions to become my brewing rig.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><br/></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">:)<br/></p>
<br/>